Update: So it's time to correct the problem. My sister works at an auto parts warehouse and bought me terminals for my Jeep. I viewed several Youtube videos to build my 'I can do this' confidence up. I am about to install new battery cable terminals, y'all!
I'll throw this out there since others have mentioned it. You can buy readers that plug into the computer port to read the error codes when your Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on. There are the cables type like your mechanic uses: or you can use the wireless type others here have mentioned (I have one in my car): These are all referred to as OBD2 Readers: On Board Diagnostics. The "2" is the version released on all U.S. cars starting in 1996. The wireless types can be left in your car (I never take mine out) and come with a Smartphone (or tablet) app that stores all the CEL Codes for your specific vehicle. It communicates wirelessly, so when the CEL comes on, you just bring up the included app in your phone and it will tell you what the Error Code is and what it means. In addition to that level of convenience and immediacy, you can update the app each year as later model cars are released, each with their own codes (this may or may not be a feature of the wired types, whose update process will be more complex than refreshing a phone app.) These also read most (all?) data points that your car's computer sees for deeper diagnosis and performance monitoring; for example, if you regularly use your vehicle for towing, you can real-time-monitor your transmission temperature via your Smartphone/tablet. Some apps allow you to create gauges to monitor things rather than reading digits. I bought a used tablet specifically for this so I could have extra "gauges" as I drive (like oil pressure and transmission temp.) You can plug these into any car you wish, to diagnose CEL issues for friends and family (just as you can with the corded type.) As others have said, these codes are not always specific no matter what the reader type. They can diagnose a problem but not always the specific underlying cause. But you can find the most likely (easily repairable) cause and start there. Make sure you read the instructions (NEVER install/remove when the ignition is on), check to see if they have a complete list of codes for your vehicle (some manufacturers add their own diagnostics codes in addition to the standard ones) AND that they translate the codes without you having to refer to an external cross-reference.
@John Brunner, Thank you. I have considered getting one of these but when the problem eluded the mechanic even with the device I thought not. One would have to really, really know how to use the process of elimination to find a specific cause of the problem and not depend on a device for the solution. That's just my take on it. Thankfully when someone told me to have the cables checked that I began to notice the CE light only came on when the engine wouldn't engage and turned off when I wiggled the cable to make the connection.
Or save the money and just drive down to the auto parts store. They will read the codes for free. (Hoping to sell parts, I'm sure.)
Trouble with those readers is that you still need to know a bit around an engine bay. Now I am just making this code up for illustrative purposes. Code3005, misfire #3 cylinder. OK you have a misfire on # 3. bad spark plug,coil breaking down,bad wire or computer glitch. Code P4592, general emissions fault. Could be anything. The reader will get you to the particular system,but your knowledge needs to go from there. Quite often there is nothing more than a sensor failure,but the system is fine. For most these are not a useful reason to spend money. If they do not reset your oil change sensor, MOST cars the ritual is to: Turn the ignition to the start,(not run) position Depress your brake pedal three times in 10 seconds Turn ignition to off, then start and run as usual. Wrong wrong wrong!!! it is gas pedal that you press
Years ago I had bought a new Buick Riviera. I had waited several years after it's interaction to allow bug to be minimized. About 50k miles I'm driving down the highway(interstate) and she dies. I take it in for service and they changes plug tune it up and on the road again it dies again. I take it back and they send a mechanic out with me along with his detector and he finds another possible problem. We get back to the shop and lo and behold somehow an older(senior citizen) overhears the discussion going on. He suggests that the fuel filter be replaced and that solves it. Then at around 75k mile I'm again on the interstate and suddenly there's a grinding sound and the car is slowing down. Turns out that I didn't wait long enough for bug removal. GM decided that the Riviera need another speed so their clever engineers figured out how to do it and it mean attaching a piece of equipment to the transmission which contained stainless steel ball bearings which were the ultimate cause of the grinding. $3000 later I traded for my first Toyota.
You're just putting new clamps on and not replacing the entire cable assembly? I assume there's enough slack to do this. I use Linesman's Pliers: You can get them at Lowes. The Craftsman ones are $16. I'm sure you know this...disconnect the cables from the battery before doing the work. -Remove the negative terminal first, and then the positive. -Reinstall in reverse order: positive first, then negative.
Thanks, John. I don't recall from the YT videos the reinstall order but I do remember to disconnect first, the order for the removal and to keep all tools away from the posts. I'll take another look at them.
Well, I was going to go at it this afternoon but it has starting raining. @John Brunner I got the pliers/cutters that you suggested while out on errands at Harbor Freight.
Yay, Harbor Freight!!! Just as an FYI, nearly all cars are Negative Ground. When the negative cable is attached to the battery, the entire car is tied to the negative battery post. If you should happen to be tightening the positive clamp and the wrench contacts any metal part of the body when the negative cable is attached, it is the same as shorting the tool across the battery posts. Here is how undesirable that would be:
Oops. Here is a vid of a guy who attaches a nail to one of the terminals and shorts to that nail from the other post. He literally melts the mail away. It is arc through a screwdriver, if you could hold it there long enough: