I thought you might be able to use this frame of reference for what the DR trimmers are going for, as you decide how much money to put into it. I troll Craigslist and just saw this ad outside of Fredericksburg VA: DR Trimmer/Mower Walk Behind Key Start - $260 (Hartwood I obtained this trimmer/mower from my son-in-law, then had it refurbished by the factory representative in in King George. It has since been maintained by Sam Street of Street Smart. I've cleared all the land that needed to be addressed on my property and I no longer need it. It works fine and it starts right up. The key starter really helps. It has a Briggs and Stratton Max, 4HP, Magnetron engine. It also has a plexiglass safety screen. It operates by using a large diameter trimmer cord. You gotta wonder how much that refurb cost. I've seen one 6.5HP like you have listed for $300. It's funny, now that I'm not in the market, there are quite a few of these for sale with prices all over the place. There's a Murry's that "needs a new carb" listed for $300, and a new-looking Troy Bilt for $80.
Thanks John. Interesting. The first one looks older, the 2nd looks newer. According to the serial number this thing was made in 1999. So I know it was used 2 seasons at most. Above the deck, a lot of what I thought was rust is just dirt. I suspect the only thing wrong with the engine is dried up gaskets and seals. They sell gasket kits. The problems are mainly underneath. Two main pulleys rusted pretty badly. Those will be $58 plus shipping. Two or 3 tiny little springs on thin little wires, and they want $5 each. Some of this has entertainment value. More fun than going on a cruise. It seems like I should start with the engine. If you can't ever get that to crank there is no need to continue. Took the cap off the top of the recoil starter, which was caked with red clay and grass. Cleaned it out, poured a little oil inside and the thing pulls easily. Maybe too easily? Would you fill it with gas and oil and try it first? Is it OK to start it without an air filter? It crumbled. It will be a nuisance draining everything out afterwards. .
That was present in my mind when I wrote "...as you decide how much money to put into it." Funny, we're alike in that way...always adding to the knowledge base. Since it's been sitting that long, the unflagging answer to "Is it alright if..." is a resounding "Yes." I'd at least change the oil first (avoid doing damage), install fresh gas and a fresh spark plug. When you say "Maybe pulls a little too easily," if you mean you put the starter back on and the engine turns freely as though there is no compression, the first thing I'd look at is the spark plug to make certain that it's seated. Any other cause is internal...just a head gasket if you're lucky, something stuck on the valve seat=not too bad, a blown engine (valves/piston don't operate) is time for a moral decision. Keep in mind that since these don't have a blade, the feel at the starter is gonna be "different." The other thing I'd look at before trying to start it is the sheer key on the flywheel, since you'll get no spark if that's been sheered (and it would contribute to the "pulls too easily" issue.) I'm not certain how easily those things sheer off in a string trimmer. Gee, typing this is way more fun than actually getting my hands dirty!
Ran into the first puzzle/clue. The oil looks new. Added a little gas and it all ran out the shaft around the primer bulb before you could even try to start it. This Guy just replaced the whole carburetor, so I don't know what his real problem was. This Guy claims it's a gasket. I don't believe it. Steve's Small Engine Saloon video makes more sense: I'm going to take the carburetor apart and see if there is anything else that looks like it needs replaced enough to justify a whole new carburetor, rather than a needle and seat, and/or just gaskets. Looking for parts is time-consuming, because there are so many options, kits, etc, and just when I find a good deal my engine model number is not in their list.
Good video, @Nancy Hart. I have a number of small engines around that need attention. I am not much of a mechanic, and hate messing with them when I have to. I will be inspired by your effort and get back on them as soon as the gardens are finished and the fences are done.
The number of different needles, seats, floats, gaskets has always been overwhelming. I have no idea why the perpetual tweaks and changes. And there are no more small engine parts & repair shops you can go to these days. The only thing around me is an auto parts store where the guy decided to have a small inventory of the commonly needed stuff. Yours may not even have a needle and a seat...it might just be the rubber gasket with the reeds stamped out. I wonder if the primer bulb just dry-rotted. I don't know if you can replace those or if an entire carb is required.
You've probably done this, but read the comments for those vids. They are usually a wealth of information (like a couple of comments under one of them that says "Your fuel bowl float is stuck open.") If that's the case, it could be a bad float (got pinholes in it so it doesn't float) or a bad needle/seat. I usually get more info. from comments that I do the vids, no matter what the subject.
I don't know anything about carburetors, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once, and this looks really bad to me. The bowl is aluminum, so it was just covered in tar. There is some kind of white coating all over the float and it's flaking off. Made me think the pin was plastic at first, but there's metal under there. The float wouldn't even move, let alone float. The "lid" for the bowl is pitted and has some kind of yellowish crystals on it that flake off. It doesn't look quite like rust, but it must be. I believe this calls for a whole new carburetor. Don't you think?
Yes. I don't recall ever seeing a plastic needle, but I have seen non-metallic floats. Again, this was a long time ago.
Just kidding. The pictures showing my dirty fingernails reminded me of one time it almost happened to me. I didn't really try it.